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Another
page taking you through the making process. This time a walnut
and burr walnut box. It was a commissioned box for a lady
who wanted to house a Noah's ark collection. The top of the
box is empty to house the ark, the drawers are compartmentalised
to house the animals.
Click
on images to enlarge. |
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| I
usually start on the drawing board. Here is the box drawn to
scale showing the layout of the dovetails. |
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| The
box sides come out of one piece of wood. I use a hand plane
to get rid of any marks made when machining the board. |
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| I
choose carefully which parts of the board I want to be the sides,
front and back. Here the board is now cut up ready for jointing. |
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I use a marking gauge to set the depth of the tails and pins. |
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| I
cut the tails first, then mark out the pins. I use a mirror to help
me avoid cutting below the marking gauge line. |
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| The
tails are nearly finished. Here the chisel rests in the gauge line
ready for a tap with a mallet. |
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| The
tails are cramped firmly on the pin board then I mark around the tails
with a scalpal. |
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| I
use a home made square with a beveled edge to mark the face of the
pin boards. Please go to the dovetails page for a more in depth look
at the dovetailing process. |
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| After
the dovetails are cut I dry assemble the box and make sure all the
edges are flush. |
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next stage is cutting out the openings for the drawer fronts. I made
a jig and used a router for this process. |
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corners of the openings are left rounded by the router. I cut
them square with a chisel. |
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| I
made another jig to put the curve on the sides. This time using a
router table. |
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| Here
I am routing the groove to house the top panel. Note the curved piece
of wood fixed to the router fence. This allows me to follow the curve
on the side. |
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| I
have reassembled the box to find the position of the groove in the
front and back. I mark where the groove should be to line up with
the groove in the side. |
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| This
a mould I have made to shape the lid panel. |
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| The
burr walnut is glued to a substrate, placed on the mould and put in
a vacuum press. A pump sucks the air out of the bag allowing atmospheric
pressure to hold the lid in place until the glue cures. |
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| Another
groove is machined on all four sides of the box to house the base
of the top compartment. |
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| I
carved my logo on the side of the lid. |
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| Here
the box is glued up. The white card on the lid is there to protect
the burr veneer. Note that I leave the front and back over height. |
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| Back
on the router table to cut the lid off. Because the front and back
are over height the box sits flat on the table bed. |
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It's
always a relief not to make a mistake! |
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| I
still leave the front and back over height to make it easy to hold
the lid. I use a hand plane to make sure the lid and the box fit together
nicely. |
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| Here
I am routing out the groove for the ebony stringing. Again using the
curved fence. |
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| Finally
it's time to cut the front and back to size. I use the table saw with
the blade set at an angle to remove most of the waste. |
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then use a plane to get everything flush. |
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| I
used smarthinges for this box. They sit in a groove machined on the
router table. |
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| Here
they are ready to be fitted. |
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| finally
the finishing process. I gave the box a number of coats of finishing
oil and then two coats of wax. To see how the drawers were made go
to the drawer page. |
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